3 months in India and Nepal followed by 6 months from Hong Kong to Glasgow along the Silk Road and route of the Orient Express. Passing through China, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Syria, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Austria, Germany, France and the United Kingdom.

5.45AM Alarm call. Many of the stall holders on our street have encouraged us to visit a local temple, which opens at 6.30AM of a morning. Rich is keen to get some ‘good light’ for his photos, so this seems ideal. After a rude awakening we make a coffee, dress and head out to investigate. Sadly the temple is not all ‘bells and whistles’ as we had hoped, it appears to be just a humble place for worship and prayer……..a vast contrast to the ornate and ostentatious temples we have been used to in Asia so far. Taking advantage of the early morning quiet, we set off on a gentle stroll around the back streets of our new neighbourhood.

From the main Amaravathy Road we turn left down ‘Sree Gopala Krishna’ where we stumble across another Hindu temple, of which the street is named after. Peering through the gates we happen to spy a solitary elephant skilfully stripping a coconut palm of its leaves. Wondering if this is the norm for local temples, we spot a poster with a picture of the elephant advertising some event. A curious local introduces himself as Satish, after the customary ‘Where are you coming from?’ he explains that today is the 8th and final day of the ‘Ulsavam’ festival for his God Krishna, and that there will be an elephant parade to celebrate. Admiring the delicate street paintings of powdered chalk he proudly explains that his son, Sanjay, is the artist. He ushers us further down the street to meet him. We watch as Sanjay effortlessly constructs another pattern outside the gate of his family home. He tells us he is in his 3rd year of studying Animation at Ernakulum college. Encouraged by our interest he rushes inside to get his drawings, most of which depict imagined scenes of animals and landscapes, one however is a representation of his God Krishna drawn in the Japanese ‘Manga’ style…...apparently this was a brief set from his college. He also tells us that he teaches some of the local children art classes. He explains that we should come back around 9.00AM to watch the elephants being dressed for the parade. We tell him we will.

We arrive back just in time to witness the now familiar elephant bathing. At only elephant number one we realise this could take some time….we head off to get some breakfast at ‘Febina Family Restaurant’. We discovered this treasure last night, for a snip we feasted on Butter Chicken and freshly made Porottas, it is very local and quite ‘spit and sawdust’ but so far we seem to have avoided any nasty repercussions. This morning we order omelettes, Chai and more Porottas. Rich takes the chance to capture the Porotta maker in full swing. Bellies full for about HKD15 we wander back to see how the elephants are getting on. Just in time, all 3 elephants are fully kitted out in ornate head-dresses, necklaces and silk piping ankle bracelets. A band of drummers and horn players have gathered and begin to play in front of the obedient chilled out creatures. The occasional blast of gunpowder leaves us and the ground shaken, but not so the elephants. This continues for some time, and sad to say was rather tuneless and repetitive to our untrained ears. At each crescendo the men atop the elephants stand and wave the parasols, raw wool pompoms and lollypop-like decorated discs. We make a note to find out the significance later. This display is repeated at each corner of the temple. Our friend Sanjay finds us again and with his glorious beaming smile explains that the street procession will begin some time later. Ears ringing we head off for another tea break.

Back at the temple for the start of the procession, a curious band of young boys make their introductions. The ubiquitous ‘Where are you coming from?’, to which I replied ‘the UK’. To their information hungry minds they continued probing with ‘England?’ ….now not one for splitting hairs, but since they asked, I reply ‘Scotland’. This is met with what I can only describe as the most obscure of statements, ‘Ah, Scotland, the land of cakes’. I wonder if I have misheard, but no it seems this really is true according to their General Studies class and their ‘Miss’ told them so. Some of the boys wander off to find more adventures elsewhere, but ten year old Ashwin and Adhul remain. They want to know ‘How do you like our land, our Kerala?’ I tell them I love their land, their Kerala. Their proud smiles tell me they like this response. It seems we are firm friends now. During the procession they return often with more anecdotes and questions. They are keen to strike a deal, Adhul offers me a 5 rupee coin in his outstretched hand. He wants to exchange it for a Scottish coin. I am genuinely disappointed I cannot meet their offer. I do however explain about Hong Kong and present him with some HKD2.00 coins. He seems pleased. I thank him but decline the exchange for his 5 rupee coin.

It seems lucky to touch and ride on the elephant. We watch in amazement as the now stationary creature instinctively raises his right rear leg to a 90 degree angle acting as a ‘stair lift’ in bringing the passengers to his mighty back. Unfazed by more drumming and the constant change of riders, his devoted handlers periodically pass him full hands of bananas.

Only 10 or so days into our stay, I am constantly amazed and humbled by the warmth and kindness of the Keralan people. As we spectate from the sidelines we are offered refreshing cups of lemon squash and mini bananas, just as the local neighbours are enjoying. Whilst we finish our drinks, Adhul and Ashwin appear at my side once again. Ashwin presses the 5 rupee coin into my hand, I feel ashamed they are giving this to me. Adhul sees my face trying to resist, and he gently encourages me ‘Take it, it may come in handy’ I laugh with relief and agree that yes, I shall take it, it may well come in handy. The boys walk back towards the temple with us, keen to practise their already fine grasp of English. I am truly pleased each time they return to my side.They are questioning us and offering useful pieces of information for our digestion. I am feeling quite overwhelmed and emotional and glad of my sunglasses to cover my welling eyes. Halfway back to the temple grounds the boys shake my hand and tell me they must be going home for now. They will be back for the procession later this evening, and want to know if we will return for it? We assure them that we will. Before they disappear down a narrow lane to their homes, Ashwin comes to my ear again and reminds me that we are very lucky to be visiting during January/February as this is their festival season. As I say my cheerios for now, I agree with him that yes we are lucky, very lucky indeed.